国内朋友请查閱 "百度博客 --- 国际树木学会" (http://hi.baidu.com/%B9%FA%BC%CA%CAF7%C4%BE%D1%A7%BB%E1/blog ) 以取得其他文章。本分会的发表文章都已放弃版权, 任何人都可以自由转载作为教育目的, 但不能作为商业目的盈利。 任何人仕都可以申请免費加入本分会, 本分会员名单从不公开, 有意者请将真实姓名、年龄、单位、职衔、最高学历、电邮和手机号传真到 +852-2679-5338 便可. 如有查询, 请电邮至 egc@netvigator.com 。本分会的一切发表内容, 谨供参考。
会员们:
附上的是一篇最近在国内发表的有关移植 "对节白腊" 的文章, 本分会将其与已知的树艺学问作比较, 希望各会员可以从中得益.
文中提出大概有9个要点, 我们逐一分享如下：
1. 选址 --- 我们同意泡水的栽种点是不好, 但不保水的栽种点同样是不好.
2. 沙栽 --- 我们认为采用沙栽, 会导致日后根系不稳, 风中容易倒塌; 沙子的保水保肥能力低, 最好不要用.
3. 坡地、平地栽植 --- 使用挖土机, 走过的地方会把泥土压成板结, 不透水透气, 所以使用的时候要非常小心. 深翻50cm以上是以为树根是往深里长; 下面没有氧气, 根会长吗?
4. 根部整理 --- 图1见到的树体已經好像一根烂木头, 大部份的结构根和吸收根都早被砍掉了, 树体还能赖以为生的是靠内部贮藏的水份和养分, 如果日后新根不能及时的长出来抽水, 或新叶片不及时长出来补充养分, 那整树死亡只是意料中之事, 谁说都不能制止. 大面积的切根会容易造成腐烂, 令本来已經被重创的树体百上加斤.
5. 使用生根剂 --- 生根粉对草本植物比木本植物有效得多, 千万不要把温室技术和大田种栽混为一谈.
6. 盖地膜 --- 如果采用塑料薄膜, 怎样透水透气? 薄膜的厚度有限, 保温吗? 根部不呼吸, 有如泡在水里, 会长吗？
7. 树干缠薄膜 --- 从图4看来, 从泥面到1米高, 薄膜是紧包著树干, 算是发出的小芽也会被压扁. 此外, 薄膜顶部是打开通风的, 怎样保温保湿？
8. 揭膜 --- 我们要问为何要在离地1米左右的树干部份发芽去制造枝条, 这些枝条长大后不会防碍通道吗？
9. 洒水 --- 对大部份乔木来讲, 吸水的部份是根, 而不是树皮. 光浇湿树皮而不长根, 行吗？
国内在移苗技术上, 走的方向与国际不同, 只要各方能够座下来谈, 也没有解决不了的事情吧 ！
谨此致意!
国际树木学会 中华地区分会 会长
欧永森
美洲顾问树艺师学会 顾问树艺师号 RCA#497 (http://isahkchina.blogspot.com/2010/12/isa-hkchina-rac-in-asia.html)
澳洲顾问树艺师学会 顾问树艺师号 ACM 0412011 (www.iaca.org.au)
资深树艺师/注册攀树师号 HK-0174BT (http://isahkchina.blogspot.com/2011/03/isa-hkchina-frist-bcma-in-asia.html)
执业树艺师号 IPA-010908 (http://isahkchina.blogspot.com/2010/04/isa-hkchina-tree-news-1441-report.html)
专业调解及谈判学会 注册调解员 (www.wegomediation.org.hk)
“不深入诊断和参照研究来批出处方, 是专业失当。 ”
“速成出来的树木评估员, 只会作出胡乱的树木评估。 大自然会决定成败。 ”
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Dear Station Members,
Attached is a recent article from China describing how a "Senior Horticulturist" would transplant Fraxinus hupehensis as landscaping tree in the field.
From the given information, it can be seen that the mature trees would come in bare root with topping & heavy root pruning. They were to be planted in a medium of sand of minimum thickness of 50cm. The planting ground was to be tilted to a depth of more than 50cm before before putting on the sand. Then the roots were to be hard-pruned further to remove any unwanted portion, before installation.
At installation, a slurry of root hormone was to be mixed in with the backfill. After watering for 5-7 days after installation, a plastic membrane was to be placed on top of the backfill to "increase the soil temperature" to enhance root development. Another set of plastic membrane was to wrap round the trunk from ground to about 1 m height, to "retain moisture on the bark surface", & to "encourage budding". This membrane was not to be removed to until all budding has finished.
As for watering, it should begin after mid-April, at a frequency of twice a day. "Do not give too much water", the author said, "It may rot the roots". "Just wet the bark", he said again.
With all these "expert advice", the author reckoned that the transplanting success would be "high", as compared to some 30% of which he had seen elsewhere. He also recommended that "Daily inspection is crucial. Kill the problem on the spot is the key."
Good luck to anyone following this "expert's" instructions. A true Arborist would do it in a rather different way.
best regards,
Sammy Au
President (Station Manager) of ISA HK/China
Registered Consulting Arborist no. RCA#497 (http://isahkchina.blogspot.com/2010/12/isa-hkchina-first-rca-in-asia.html)
Institute of Australian Consulting Arboriculturists Accredited Member no. ACM 0412011 (http://www.iaca.org.au/)
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist / Certified Tree Worker no. HK-0174BT (http://isahkchina.blogspot.com/2011/03/isa-hkchina-first-bcma-in-asia.html)
Independent Practicing Arborist no. IPA-010908 (http://isahkchina.blogspot.com/2010/04/isa-hkchina-hk-tree-news-14410-report.html)
Certified Mediator of the Society of Certified Mediators and Negotiators (http://www.wegomediation.org.hk/)
"Providing treatment without in-depth diagnosis & research support is professional misconduct. "
"Casual tree assessor delivers wanton tree assessment. Mother Nature makes the rules."
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